Apparatus for treating shoe uppers



Feb. 4, 1941. M. L. DODGE ,2

APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS I Filed Sept. '25, 1935 4Sheets-Sheet 1 (/7! 7 fl 7 j; Z

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Feb. 4, 1941. M. L.- DODGE APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS FiledSept. 25, 1953 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Feb. 4, 1941. D DGE APPARATUS FORTREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed Sept. 25, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Feb. 4, 1941.

M. L. DODGE APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed Sept. 25, 1933 4Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented Feb. 4, 1941 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 63Claims.

This invention relates'to apparatus for treating shoe uppers, eitherbefore or after incorporation in shoes, and more especially, though notnecessarily, Where linings are used and after the linings and outer havebeen secured together, and has for its object to provide an apparatuswhich will so act on the upper edge portions or skirtings of the upperthat the upper edges of the linings will not show in the completed shoe,particularly when the shoe is being worn, and which when treating lastedshoes, straightens the sides of the top opening, turns the sides intoward each other, narrowing the opening, and otherwise improves theshape and appearance of the shoe upper. The apparatus also acts to shapeand form the counter, when one is used, and more particularly toward itsupper edge.

This application is a continuation in part of my application SerialNumber 604,455, filed April 11, 1932, for Shoe upper and method of andapparatus for shaping the same.

It is customary to finish shoes .by a treeing operation during which theexterior surface of the upper is ironed by means of heated smoothingtools of suitable shapes, the heat of the treeing tools shrinking andsmoothing the leather of the outside. As the outer and its lining areoriginally shaped together on the last without allowance for subsequentshrinking of either of these parts, the result of this shrinking of theouter is to leave the lining relatively larger so than there is atendency for the rim portions of the upper about the opening of the shoeto curl outwardly and show the upper edge of the lining prominently.Because of weight of lining material and small space between the topstitching and the top edge of the shoe, at least in the better grades ofWomens shoes the trimming of the lining in under the top of the outer inan eiTort to hide-the lining edge is difiicult. Even where the liningmargin is out under the outer margin, it still shows sufficiently inalmost all cases to detract from the appearance of the shoe. Removal ofthe shoe from the treeing form, moreover, tends to spread the sides ofthe opening apart, particularly at their forward ends, and to leavethese side edges crooked. These effects are undesirable as they detractfrom the appearance of the shoe and also prevent a close hugging fit ofthe rim of the opening to the foot. According to the present inventionthis difliculty is overcome by providing a form member over which theportion of a shoe adjacent to the opening may be placed and pressermembers arranged to press the rim portions of the shoe against this formin such a manner as to turn the lateral rim portions of the shoeinwardly. The efiectiveness of this operation for its intended purposemay be increased by heating the form which acts to shrink a substantialportion of the adjacent lining so as to reduce the area of the liningrelative to the outer. The efiectiveness of treatment may also beincreased by producing a relative motion between the surfaces of theform and presser member so as to Wipe the outer toward its top margin,or hold the top margin of the outer while pressing the top margin of thelining down, thus relatively extending the outer and pressing the topedge of the outer over the edge of the lining toward or against the formso that it completely hides the upper edge of the lining, which also, bythe pressure exerted between the form and member, is substantiallythinned at its upper edge. The top openings of shoes may present rawedges or the outer may be finished in various ways such as by skivingand folding, by a French cord, piping, plain binding, or otherwise, asis well known in the art. The reference herein to the top edge margin ofthe outer or skirting is therefore intended to include the outer itselfand any edge finishing part therefor which may be employed. The formmember over which the shoe is placed is preferably made of such a shapeas to permit the removal of the shoe after the pressing operation withminimum distortion at the opening. As a result, the rim portions of theupper adjacent to the opening of the shoe are set with a slight inwardcurve resisting outward turning so that the shoe presents a neat andtrim appearance of particular value for displaying in a store and therim of the opening hugs closely against the foot of the wearer when inuse.

Besides the treeing operation, any of the openations, such as removingthe last, cleaning the lining, or inserting a sock lining, tend todistort the upper of a pump or the like and to make subsequent treatingof the shoe in accordance with this invention highly desirable. Thistreating may be eiiected either before or after the outer or upper andlining have been incorporated in the shoe as heretofore suggested, andit is also applicable when shoes are being repaired.

Besides treating the side portions of the upper adjacent to the opening,the ends of the shoe opening may be similarly treated, and the forwardend or throat may be turned upward-1y or lifted, improving the fit ofthe shoe and eliminating the necessity of any other special liftingoperatlon.

For a more complete understanding of the invention, reference may be hadto the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation ofone unit of the apparatus, this unit being particularly intended tooperate on the sides of the shoe at the top.

Figure 2 is a detail section on line 22 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a detail section on line 33 of Figure 2.

Figure 4 is a front elevation of the parts shown in Figure 1.

Figure 5 is a view similar to a portion of Fig-. ure 4, but with partsin diflferent positions.

Figures 6 and 7 are perspective views of cooperating forming members.

Figures 8 and 9 are perspective views of modifled cooperating formingmembers.

Figure 10 is a detail section on line Ill-i0 of Figure 8.

Figure 11 is a detail section to a larger scale online ll-H of Figure 1.

Figures 12 and 13 are views similar to Figure 11, but showing successivestages in .the forming operation.

Figure 14 is a perspective of a table for supporting four forming units.

Figure 15 is a perspective of a unit particularly suitable for treatingthe upper at the forward end of the top opening.

Figure 16 is a view somewhat similar to Figure 15 with parts broken awayand showing the parts at or near the completion of the forming andpressing operation.

Figure 17 is a detail section on line il-ll of Figure 16-.

Figure 18 is a view somewhat similar to a por-' tion of Figure 17 andillustrating the condition of the shoe upper before the treatment shownin Figure 17.

Figure 19 is a fragmentary perspective of the outer forming member shownin Figures 15 to 1'7.

Figure 20 is a view similar to Figure 16, but illustrating apparatus fortreating the heel end of the shoe upper.

Figure 21 is a view similar to a portion of Figure 20, but showing theshoe at or near the end of the treating operation.

Referring first to Figures 1 to 14, at l is indicated a table toppreferably having a downturned flange 2 at its forward end. This tablemay be formed as shown in Figure 14 with a concave forward face 3presented by the flange 2 and the top I may be supported at oppositeends on suitable legs or standards 4. Arranged at intervals along thelength of the table top I may have cut in from the forward face 3 thesubstantially radially arranged slots 5 within each of which may beplaced a bracket arm I0, which, as shown best in Figures 1 and 4,extends both above and below the table top I. As shown, each of thebrackets may be secured to the forward face of the table as by screws llpassing through perforated ears 12 of a forward flange l3 of the bracketl8 intermediate its ends and into the member I. The upwardly extendingportion of this bracket is formed in the shape of a goose neck M whichsupports at its free end a form member [5. The goose neck and the formmember may be secured together by any suitable means, such as the screwsl6 shown in Figures 1 and 4.

One shape of form member which may be used is shown detached in Figure 6and may comprise a lower portion 20 having substantially straight sidesfor the major portion of its length and merging with a rounded end 2|and a narrower opposite end 22. The upper portion of the form comprisesa neck 23 of reduced thickness terminating with a flanged head 24 forengagement with the free end of the goose neck l4 to which it issecured. The lower portion 20 of this form has inwardly curved sidefaces 25 merging with the neck 23 and with a substantially flat topface. At 26 is shown a perforation extending into the lower portion 20and within which may be placed an electric heating unit 21 of anysuitable description, such as is shown in Figures 1 and 4.

Cooperating with the form i5 is a pair of presser members 30, which, asshown, are carried at the upper ends of a pair of arms 3|, each pivotedas at 32 to portions of the bracket I0. These arms 31 extend below theirpivotal points 32 and their lower ends are joined by a pair of links 35,each pivoted at its outer end as at 36 to one of the arms 3| and the twopivoted together at their inner ends as at 31. The pivot 31 is carriedat the upper end of a rod 38 which is guided for vertical slidingmovement through a guide boss 40 shown as integral with the bracket Hijust beneath the table flange 2. At the extreme inner end of the arm l0it has pivoted thereto, as at 45 suitable actuating mechanism such as ahand lever 46 which is connected by a link 4! pivoted thereto to thelower end of the rod 38. The lever 46, as shown, is provided with ahandle 48 at its outer end by which it may be rocked. Downward motion ofthe handle 48 from the position shown in Figures 1 and 4 acts tostraighten or make the toggle links 35, as shown in Figure 5, which inturn swings in the presser members to press the straight runs of theupper of a low cut shoe placed about the form I5 against the sides ofthis form.

The presser members 30 are each provided with a mold surface or face 50generally complementary to a face 25 of the form l5, and, as shown onFigures 11, 12 and 13, each presser member is preferably covered byyielding surface material such as a layer of rubber shown at 5|, whichmay be faced with a light leather facing 52, the edges of which may besecured together on the back face of the presser member as by a lacing53 (shown best in Figure 1). By generally complementary is meant thatwhen the pressing members are in pressing relation to a shoe upper onthe form, the upper is pressed throughout substantially the length ofthe presser member along at least its upper edge portion, though thispres sure is not necessarily substantially uniform in amount throughoutthe area pressed.

The outer 6D and the lining 6| of a shoe, top stitched together as at62, as shown in Figure 11, is placed about the form l5 and between thisform and the presser members 30. This outer and lining, topstitchedtogether and as received from the usual treeing operation during whichthe outer is somewhat shrunken, commonly are somewhat spaced apart belowthe top stitching as shown at 63 by reason of the shrinking to which theouter has been subjected, or because of poor lasting of the lining whichleaves it full. Commonly the outer lining and counter are adhesivelysecured together somewhat below the top stitching so that the outer andlining are effectively held together from about the point 64 downwardly(see Figure 11). By downward pressure exerted on the handle 48 thepressing members 30 are then brought progressively toward the form 15 ina manner to clamp the outer and lining therebetween. As shown in Figure12, the parts are so proportioned that the portion of the form 30 firstto engage the upper engages it about in line with the point 54 so thatthe outer and. lining are held against the form from this point and areprogressively compressed between this point and the top margins of theupper. This action prevents the crowding down of the lining relative tothe outer, producing a .pucker therebetween and pressing this so that itbecomes a wrinkle in the lining. As the pressure is increased betweenthe presser members and the form, the facing 5i of each presser member30 is brought back into contact with the member and the lining and outerare pressed firmly together between the presser member and form. Theangularity of the confronting faces of these parts is such that the formis sprung downwardly between the presser members, the goose neckyielding sufficiently for this action to take place, and this togetherwith the direction of motion in which the presser members are forcedthereagainst, causes opposite components of motion heightwise of theshoe along the faces of the outer and lining. This pressure cause-s thetop edge of the lining to be thinned so that it is not as noticeable asbefore the operation, and when the outer and lining are so securedtogether that sufficient relative motion is possible, the surfacecomponents of motion act to form the top edge of the lining in under thetop edge of the outer and to extend the top edge of the outer inwardlythereof toward or in contact with the form 15. Engagement of the liningon the form l5 prevents the lining from creeping upwardly with the outerand the heat to which the lining is subjected tends to shrink thelining, thus further to prevent the top edge of the lining from beingmoved with the outer, the form acting to hold back the lining while theouter is extended thereover, as shown best in Figure 13. It will benoted also that the top edge of the lining is thinned by the pressureand that the line of top stitching at H! is caused to become inclinedinwardly and downwardly rather than being perpendicular to the outerfaces of the upper as shown in Figures 11 and 12 as when the stitchingwas done.

As shown in Figures 11 to 13, inclusive, the top edge of the outer isfinished off by a piping which is folded over the edge of the outer andextended between it and the lining. It is also common to skive thetopedge of the outer on the flesh side and fold it over to present thegrain face of the leather on the top edge of the outer. With eitherconstruction the action of the machine is tofeather the top edge of thelining and to bend the folded edge of the upper, whether the piping orthe skived edge of the outer, toward the adjacent plane of the featheredlining edge and to iron out any depression formed in the exposed face ofthe upper during the top stitching operation as by the tightening of thestitching in place.

The bottom of the form is downwardly pre sented so that the top edge ofthe shoe upper throughout its entire length may be properly positionedthereon with the edge up and in full view of the operator who is able tosee that the proper action of the machine is produced at each actuationthereof.

By reason of the relatively straight lengthwise outlines of the lowerportion 20 of the form 15, the side edges of the foot opening of theshoe are straightened and turned in as well as the outer extended overthe upper edge of the lining or the 'lining pushed down so that theouter conceals the lining at the top. As the form is narrower at itsheel end, the heel end of the opening is also narrowed as is alsodesirable and the shape of the entire heel end portion of the shoeincluding the counter when one is: used, as is usual, is improved.

As shown in Figure 14, the'heaters for the forms 15 may be regulated bya suitable rheostat as at '15, connections being made from the rheostatto suitable sockets 18 from which connections may be made to theindividual heaters as through the usual outlet plugs T! and lead wires18, as shown in Figure 1.

In order that the uppers may be subjected to the proper amount ofpressure, means may be provided as shown best in Figures 2 and 3 toadjust the pivotal connection between the toggle links 35 and the arms31. As therein shown the lower end of each arm 3! is provided with aslot 86 through which extends the pivot pin 35, this pin extendingthrough the forked extremity 8! of a link 35. Through the end wall ofthe slot 8| may be threaded an adjusting screw 82 which bears at itsinner end against the pivot pin 36. By adjustment of this screw 82 thecorresponding arm 3| may be rocked so as to determine: its inward rockedposition when the'toggle links are made or straightened, as shown bestin Figure 5 In order to accurately determine the positionof the upperwhen placed over the form, a gage may be provided as shown at 90 inFigures 1, 6, 8 and 10. As shown this gage comprises a wire having oneend secured in a nut B! mounted for vertical movement within acounterbored hole 92 near the heel end of the form 15. A spring 83seated in this counterbored portion holds the nut 9| upwardly as far asit permitted by its engagement with an adjusting screw'M having its head95 seated in a socket 91 in the lower face of the form, the stem. of thescrew passing through the small diameter portion of the hole 92' andbeing threaded into the nut 9i A portion of the wire 90 passes through aslot 98 so as to prevent the nut and gage element from being rocked outof pro-per gaging position.

In Figures 8 and 9 somewhat modified forms and presser members areshown, particularly intended for use on shoes of the oxford type, suchshoes having upwardly extending forward portions of the quarters or vampback of the throat of the shoe and which form closure wings. The formI00 of Figure 8 is provided at its forward portion with side wallsgradually approaching each other toward the head 24 rather than beingsharply curved inwardly as in the form shown in Figure 6, so that theseupwardly extended quarter portions or wings of the oxford shoe may belaid up flat against these side portions and thus ironed and pressedduring the action of the apparatus. The faces of the wing portions ofthe outer presser forms or molds thus constitute substantialcontinuations of the shaping contours of the base portions though theyare inherently of greater resiliency. The presser lill' is formedsubstantially complementally to the side walls of the form m as shown inFigure 9 in which figure the yielding facing for the form has beenomitted for the sake of clarity, so as to engage and press the upwardlyextended shoe portions along substantially their entire marginssimultaneously when the rearward top upper margins are being pressed.

The wings of oxford shoes often carry along their forward margins theeyelet stays and eye 'lets so that when such a shoe is in the pressingmachine, both the form and the outer presser members present portions toengage and press the eyelet stay outwardly of the eyelets as well as thetop margin of the shoe rearwardly of the wings, the effective pressingcontours of the cooperating parts substantially following the top edgecontour of the shoe including that of the upward extensions or wings.

The forms shown in Figures 6 and 7 may be used with shoes of the oxfordtype, but for best results require more care in positioning the quarterportions on the form than is necessary with forms such as shown inFigure 8. Inconnection with pumps the form and presser element such asshown in Figures 6 and 7 are preferred.

In a shoe factory it has usually been found desirable to use fourpresser and heating units for each table, as shown in Figure 14. Forrepair shops it will usually be found desirable to use a smaller numberof units on a single table, as, for example, two.

Besides so treating the shoe as to straighten the sides of the upper atthe shoe opening and to extend the outer materials over and to concealthe top edges of the linings, the same action may be produced on the endportions of the shoe opening as well as the sides. Figures 15 to 19illustrate a construction particularly suitable for performing thisoperation on the forward end or throat of the shoe opening and also forlifting the edge of the upper materials at this end, turning themupwardly so that the shoe more comfortably fits the foot of the wearer.This obviates the necessity of the usual lifting operation heretoforeperformed on this portion of the shoe as a separate operation. Referringto these figures, at H is shown a goose neck bracket or support securedin any suitable way to a table top I I I, this goose neck or bracketcarrying at its free end a form I I2 which is preferably provided withsome means for heating it, as, for example, the electrical heating unitH3. This form H2 is provided with an upper face I I4 which is preferablyconcave lengthwise to a greater degree than the usual contour of theshoe upper as lasted. The shoe is placed over this form as shown indotted lines in Figure and beneath the form may, if desired, be placedthe supporting shims or wedges II5, which form a, bearing for the lowerface of the form I I2 and facilitate, by suitable manipulation of theshoe, pulling upwardly of the rear edge portion of the shoe upper at theforward end of the shoe opening as at H6. Cooperating with this heatedform may be a somewhat forked presser member I20 shown in perspective inFigure 19. This presser member may be carried by a lever I2I fulcrumedat I22 on the free end of the goose neck bracket I III. A spring I23 maybe employed to normally hold the lever I2I in the position shown in thisfigure and with the presser member I20 spaced from the form II2. A stopI24 on the lever I2I engaging a face of the bracket I I0 may be employedto limit the pivotal motion imparted by the spring I23. This member I20may be provided with a yieldable facing as at I25 shown in Figures 16and 17, which, by rocking of the lever I2I, may be brought intoengagement with the outer face of the upper, forcing the upper downagainst the concave face I I4, thus turning upwardly the throat portionIIG, which action may be further enhanced by the operator drawingdownwardly on the shoe with his hand. As the concave face I I4 is morenearly vertical atits upper than at'its lower end, the amount to whichthe throat portion III; of the -shoe;is raised may be regulated byplacing the shoe upper more or less rearwardly on the form.

In many types of shoes, as shown in Figure 18, the lining is seamedtogether substantially centrally' from the point IIG somewhat forwardly,as shown at I26, and this pressing of the upper between the form H2 andthe presser member I20 irons this seam down flat, while at the same timethe part H6 is raised into somewhat the position shown in Figure 17. Atthe same time the presser member I20 is given a component of motionbackwardly along the face of the upper, and this, aided by the yieldingfacing I25, causes the outer materials to be wiped upwardly andrearwardly and pressed down toward the form II2 over the top edge of thelining, thus concealing the 1ining at this portion of the shoe in thesame manner that the side presser members and the forms I5 and I00hereto-fore described accomplish the same result at the side portions ofthe shoe opening.

Similarly the heel end portion of the upper may be treated so as toextend the outer over the top edge of the lining and to press and irondown the heel seam of the upper materials. Apparatus for doing this isshown in Figures 20 and 21. The bracket I shown in these figures,

which may be of goose neck construction similar to the bracket IIO, hassecured to its free end the heel form I3I which is provided with aconvex face I32 over which the heel end portion of the shoe may beplaced. A lever I33 fulcrumedat I34 to the bracket I30 may be provided'with an arm I35 to which is pivotally connected at I36 the rear endportion of a heel presser member I31, the relationship being such thatas the outer end of the lever I33 is depressed, the presser member I31is forced downwardly against the shoe and with a component of pressuretoward the top edge of the shoe. In order that the presser member mayfollow along in close contact with the shoe upper, the outer end of thepresser member is yieldingly held pressed toward the shoe so that it maybe dragged along in contact with the shoe upper as the pivot point I36is moved rearwardly. As shown this is accomplished by a compressionspring I38 reacting between the member I31 and the handle I33 and tolimit the pivotal motion of the presser member I31 produced by thisspring, a suitable stop such as the yoke-shaped member I may beprovided, the ends of its arms being pivoted to opposite sides of themember I31 at I39 and;

its intermediate portion passing over the top of the lever I33, beingprovided with an abutment screw I42 and check nut I43 by which the limitof separation between the forward end of the member I31 and the leverI33 may be determined. This presser member I31 is also preferablyprovided with a facing of yieldable material as at I for contact withthe shoe upper.

While the constructions heretofore illustrated and described areparticularly suitable for treatment of shoe uppers after they have beenassembled in shoes, it is of-course evident that the upper materialsmight be treated before assembly in the shoes if desired, although thestraightening effects at the sides of the shoe opening would not then befully realized because of the subsequent operations incident to makingthe shoes tending to distort them.

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention,it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changesand modifications might be made without departing from the spirit orscope of this invention as defined by the appended claims. I claim:

1. A shoe upper forming apparatus, compris'- ing inside and outsideformer members between which a shoe upper including outer and lining maybe positioned, and operative connections between said members actuableto close said members in clamping engagement with the shoe outer andlining and to move said members relatively transverse to the length ofthe shoe in opposite directions along opposite faces of the top edges 15of the outer and lining to form the top margin of the lining under thetop margin of the outer and to project the outer over the top margin ofthe lining.

2. A shoe upper forming apparatus, comprising inside and outside formermembers between which a shoe upper including the lining may bepositioned, operative connections between said members actuable to closesaid members in clamping engagement with the shoe outer and lining andto move said members relatively in opposite directions along oppositefaces of the outer and lining transverse to the length of the shoe andalong its top edges, to form the top margin of the lining under the topmargin of. the outer and to project the outer over the top margin of thelining, and means for heating the inside former member.

3. A shoe upper forming apparatus, comprising a member over which thetop portion of a shoe upper may be placed, a presser member engageablewith the outer face of the upper, and means actuable to force saidpresser member against said upper with a component of motion directedtoward said margin.

4. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises an elongated formover which a. shoe may be placed adjacent to the opening theerof, thesides of said form curving inwardly at the top and being straightlengthwise substantially 45 from end to end, means for heating saidform,

a pair of presser elements adapted to engage the outside of the shoe onthe side portions adjacent to the rim of the opening substantially fromthe heel to the throat, and means for pressing said 50. elements towardsaid member.

5. Apparatus of the class described, comprising a table, a supportbracket thereon, an elongated form on said support bracket adapted tohave placed thereon the top portion of a shoe 55 adjacent to the openingthereof, the sides of said form curving inwardly at the top, means forheating said form, a pair of levers rockably mounted on said table sothat their upper ends can swing toward and from each other, a pair 60 ofpresser members carried by said levers and movable thereby intoengagement with the sides of said form, said members having concavedfaces confronting the sides of said form and approximately complementalthereto, and means for rocking said levers to press said members againstsaid form.

6. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a member adaptedto enter the opening of a shoe and to present within the shoe asubstantially flat top face over which the top rim of said upper may bepressed, and means for pressing a shoe upper placed over said formagainst said face.

'7. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a member adaptedto enter the opening of a shoe and having an in-turned side face at thetop over which the top rim of said upper may be pressed, and a pressermember movable to press said top rim over said face.

8. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a member adaptedto enter the opening of a shoe and having in -turned side faces at thetop for a portion of its length over which the sides of the top rim ofan oxford type shoe upper may be pressed from adjacent to its heel endfor a portion of its length, said member having inwardly sloping sidefaces forwardly of said in-turned faces and extending thereabove andagainst which the upwardly extending forward portions of the shoe uppermay be engaged.

9. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a member adaptedto enter the opening of a shoe and having an in-turned side face at thetop for a portion of its length over which a side of the top rim of anoxford type shoe upper may be pressed from adjacent to its heel end fora portion of its length, said member having an inwardly sloping sideface forwardly of said in-turned face and extending thereabove andagainst which an upwardly extending forward side portion of the shoeupper may be engaged, and a side presser element shaped to press therear portion of a side of said upper adjacent to its top against saidin-turned face and the forward portion of said side against said slopingface.

10. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which ashoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said formfor pressing the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of pivoted arms eachsupporting one of said presser members, a pair of toggle links pivotedto and between said arms arranged to swing said members toward said formwhen said toggle links are moved toward made position, and means foractuating said toggle links.

11. Apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which ashoe upper maybe placed, presser members on opposite sides of said formfor pressing the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of pivoted arms eachsupporting one of said presser members, a pair of toggle links pivotedto and between said arms arranged to swing said members toward said formwhen said toggle links are moved toward made position, means foradjusting the pressure exerted between said form and members when saidtoggle is made, and means for actuating said toggle links.

12. Apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which ashoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said formfor pressing the shoe upper thereagains't, a pair of pivoted arms eachsupporting one of said presser members, a pair of toggle links pivotedto and between said arms arranged to swing said members toward said formwhen said toggle links are moved toward made position, means foradjusting the pivotal connections between said links and arms to therebyadjust the pressure exerted between said form and presser members whensaid toggle is made, and means for actuating said toggle links.

13. An apparatus of the class described, com

prising a yieldable support, a form carried by the free end of saidsupport and having side" faces inclined toward each other at their uppersaid form faces, and means for simultaneously moving said members toeffect pressing or releasing of said upper and lining, said supportyielding under pressure exerted between said forms and member to producea wiping motion therebetween.

14. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a goose necksupport, a form carried by the free end of said support having sidefaces inclined toward each other at their upper portions and about whichform a shoe upper may be placed, a pair of presser members having facesgenerally complemental to said form faces mounted for pivotal movementtoward and from said form faces, and means for simultaneously movingsaid members to effect pressing or releasing of said upper, said gooseneck yielding under pressure exerted between said forms and member toproduce a wiping motion therebetween.

15. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a pair of formingmembers having confronting faces for engagement with opposite faces of ashoe upper of the oxford type, said members having upward extensions ofsaid faces at one end for engagement with the opposite faces of theforward upper end of the quarter of said shoe upper.

16. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a pair of formingmembers having confronting faces for engagement with opposite faces ofthe side portions of a shoe upper, and a gage adjustable to determinethe position of the shoe upper between said members.

17. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a pair of formingmembers having con- :fronting faces for engagement with opposite facesof the side portions of a shoe upper, and a gage carried by one of saidmembers against which the top of the upper may be placed and adjustablefrom and toward the opposite side of said one member.

18. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a table having aslot in its forward edge, a bracket member secured in said slot andprojecting above and below the top of said table, said upwardlyprojecting portion being of goose neck shape, a form about which the topmarginal portions of a shoe upper may be engaged, spaced arms pivotallyconnected to said bracket member below said form, a presser membercarried by the free end of said goose neck at the upper end of each armpositioned to swing toward and from said form, a pair of toggle linksjoining said arm below their pivotal connections, an actuating leverpivoted to the lower end of said bracket, and operative connectionsbetween said lever and said toggle links.

19. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped tosupport the upper of a shoe, a presser member, and means for forcingsaid presser member toward said form and with a component of motionlaterally of the length of the shoe along the supporting surface of saidform.

20. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped tosupport the upper of a shoe and adjacent to one end of the foot opening,a presser member, and means for forcing said presser member toward saidform and with a component of motion laterally of the length of the shoealong the supporting surface of said form.

21. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped tosupport a shoe upper adjacent to one end of the foot opening, a pressermember, and means for forcing said presser member toward said form andwith a component of motion laterally of the length of the shoe along thesupporting surface of said form, said presser member having a yieldablefacing for contact with said shoe upper.

22. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped tosupport the throat portion of a shoe upper, said form having alongitudinally concaved upper face, a presser member, and means foractuating said presser member to press the upper against and conform itto the concavity of said face.

23. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped tosupport the throat portion of a shoe outer and lining top-stitchedtogether, said form having a longitudinally concaved upper face, apresser member, and means for actuating said presser member in adirection to press the outer and lining against and conform them to theconcavity of said face and to Wipe the outer toward the top thereof toextend it beyond the margin of said lining.

24. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form shaped tosupport the throat portion of a shoe outer and lining top-stitchedtogether, said form having a longitudinally concaved upper face, apresser member, means for actuating said presser member in a directionto press the outer and lining against and conform them to the concavityof said face and to wipe the outer toward the top thereof to extend itbeyond the margin of said lining, and means for heating said form.

25. A shoe upper forming apparatus, comprising inside and outside formermembers between which a shoe upper comprising an outer and liningtop-stitched together may be placed, said inside former member beingshaped to the heel end portion of the shoe to receive thereover the heelend of said upper, and means for forcing said outside former membertoward said inside former member with a component of motion directedtoward the top edge of the upper to thereby press the outer and liningand to extend the top margin of the outer beyond the top margin of thelining.

26. A shoe upper forming apparatus, comprising inside and outside formermembers between which a shoe upper comprising an outer and liningtop-stitched together may be placed, said inside former member beingshaped to the heel end portion of the shoe to receive thereover the heelend of said upper, means for forcing said outside former member towardsaid inside former member with a component of motion directed toward thetop edge of the upper to thereby press the outer and lining and toextend the top margin of the outer beyond the top margin of the lining,and means heating said inside former member.

2'7. A shoe upper forming apparatus comprising inside and outside formermembers between which a shoe upper including a lining and outertop-stitched together may be placed, a support carrying said insideformer member, and a lever fulcrumed on said support and carrying saidoutside former member in position to effect a pressing and wiping actionon the outer and lining heightwise of the upper on swinging said leverin one direction.

28. A shoe upper forming apparatus compris ing inside and outside formermembers, said inside former member having a concave face over which thethroat portion of a shoe may be placed, a support carrying said insideformer member, a

lever pivoted to said support eccentric to said face and carrying saidoutside former-member in position to press the shoe upper on saidinside'former member with a component of motion heightwise of the upperdirected along said face.

29. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a support, a formcarried by said support and having a convex face over which may beengaged the heel end portion of a shoe upper, a lever pivoted to saidsupport, a presser member having a concave face for pressing the shoeupper against the convex face of said form, means pivotally connectingsaid presser member adjacent to one end to said lever in position forsaid member to be moved toward and longitudinally of the convex face ofsaid form, and means for yieldingly pressing said presser member aboutsaid pivotal means toward said form.

30. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a support, a formcarried by said support and having a convex face over which may beengaged the heel end portion of a shoe upper, a lever pivoted to saidsupport, a presser member having a concave face for pressing the shoeupper against the convex face of said form, means pivotally connectingsaid presser member adjacent to one end to said lever in position forsaid member to be moved toward and longitudinally of the convex face ofsaid form, means for yieldingly pressing said presser member about saidpivotal means toward said form, and a stop for limiting the pivotalmotion producible by said yielding means.

31. A shoe upper treating apparatus having a form over which the upperof a lasted shoe may be placed for treating with the top edge thereof infull view of the operator throughout substantially its entire extent,and means for treating the sides of the shoe upper along their topmargins.

32. A shoe upper treating apparatus having a form over which the uppermay be placed for treating, means movable toward the sides of the upperand cooperating with said form to treat the upper adjacent to its topmargin, and means supporting said form and treating means to present thetop edge of the upper toward and in view of the operator as the shoe isbeing treated.

33. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over whichthe throat portion of a shoe upper including an outer and lining may bedrawn, a presser member engageable with the outer face of the shoeupper, and means for relatively manipulating said form and pressermember in a manner to wipe and extend the outer of the upper beyond thelining at their top margins.

34. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over whichthe throat portion of a shoe upper including an outer and lining may bedrawn, a presser member engageable with the outer face of the shoeupper, and means for relatively manipulating said form and pressermember in a manner to extend the outer of the upper beyond the lining attheir top margins, said form having its face for engagement with theshoe provided with a concavity formed to determine by the position ofthe shoe thereon the amount to which the throat of said shoe shall beraised by the operation of said apparatus.

35. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which ashoe upper may be placed, a member actuable to press saidupper againstsaid form, a presser actuating member movable to apply the pressure andhaving a limit of pressure-applying movement, and means adjustable todetermine the amount of pressure exerted by said presser member whensaid actuating member is moved to said limit.

36. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extensionon each side back from its throat may be placed, and means for pressingsaid extensions along substantially their entire margins against aportion of said form.

3'7. In combination, a form over which a shoe upper having upwardextensions on each side back from the throat may be placed, said formhaving its side walls in-turned toward each other at the top in its rearportion and an upward extension forwardly of said rear portion, andmeans for pressing the rear top margins of a shoe upper placed over saidform against said in-turned portions of said side walls and said upperextensions against the sides of said form extension.

38. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a form adaptedto enter the opening of a shoe and to present within the shoe for aportion of its length at the top a side face in-turned for supportingthe surface of the corresponding side portion of the shoe upper adjacentto the shoe opening, a presser member adapted to engage the outside ofthe shoe adjacent to the rim of the opening and to press said rimagainst said in-turned side face, and means for pressing said membertoward said form.

39. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises a form adaptedto enter the opening of a shoe and to present within the shoe at itsback portion a side face in-turned at the top for supporting the surfaceof the corresponding side portion of the upper adjacent to the shoeopening, a presser member adapted to engage the outside of the shoeupper adjacent to the rim of the opening and to press this rim againstsaid inurned side face, and means for pressing said member toward saidform.

40. Apparatus for shaping a shoe upper, which comprises an elongatedform over which a shoe may be placed adjacent to the opening thereof,the sides of said form curving inwardly and being straight lengthwisesubstantially from end to end, means for heating said form, a pair ofpresser elements adapted to engage the outside of the shoe on the sideportions adjacent to the rim of the opening substantially from the heelto the throat, and means for pressin said elements toward said member.

41. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which ashoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said formfor pressing the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of pivoted arms eachsupporting one of said members, toggle links connecting said arms, andmeans for actuating said toggle links tomove said members toward or awayfrom said form.

42. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which ashoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said formfor pressing the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of arms each supportingone of said members and pivoted on an axis arranged substantiallylengthwise of said form, and means actuable to swing said arms to bringsaid members from or toward said form.

43. An apparatus of the class described, comprising a form over which ashoe upper may be placed, presser members on opposite sides of said formfor pressin the shoe upper thereagainst, a pair of arms each supportingone of said members and pivoted on an axis arranged substantiallylengthwise of said form, toggle links connecting said arms, and meansfor actuating said toggle links to bring said members toward or fromsaid form.

44. In a re-forming machine, the combination with an inside shapingform, of an outside shaping form to press the skirting only along atlea-st one straight run of the top edge of a shoe into conformity to theShaping contour of the inside form, said outside form being movabletowards and from the inside form about an axis parallel to thelongitudinal center line of the inside form.

45. In a re-forming machine, the combination with a stand, an insideshaping form secured thereto and adapted to fit within and support alow-cut shoe, arms pivoted to the stand for movement toward and awayfrom the opposite sides of said inside form, and outside shaping formssecured to the arms, respectively, and movable therewith, said insideand outside shaping forms having coacting, substantially complementarymold surfaces adapted to engage and press between them ahe skirtingsonly along the straight runs of the top edge of the shoe, of means forswinging the arms on the stand to bring the mold surfaces of the outsideforms into engagement with the shoe mounted upon the inside form andpress said skirtings against the mold surface of the inside form.

46. A re-forming machine having, in combination, a head, an insideshaping mold fixed to said head and accessible to the operative forplacing the shoe thereon, an outside shaping form connected to said headfor movement toward and from said inside mold about an axis parallel tothe longitudinal center line of said inside mold, means for moving saidoutside form to press the skirtings along at least one straight run ofthe top edge of a shoe into conformity with the shaping contour of theinside mold, said moving means including a member adapted to vary theextent of movement of the outside form, and means to lock said outsideform in its pressing position.

4'7. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings,coacting pressing forms having substantially complementary shapingsurfaces for contacting the inner and outer surfaces of the skirtingalong the top edge of at least one side of the shoe and the wingthereof, at least one of said forms comprising a base portion forcontacting the top edge skirting and a wing carried by the base portionfor contacting the shoe wing.

48. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings,coacting pressing forms having substantially complementary shapingsurfaces for contacting the inner and outer surfaces of the skirtingalong the top edge of at least one side of the shoe and the wingthereof, at least one of said forms comprising a base portion having amolded shaping contour for contacting the top edge skirting and a wingcarried by the base portion for contacting the shoe wing, one surface ofsaid form wing being substantially continuous with the shaping contourof the base portion.

49. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings, aform over which a shoe may be placed to present within the shoe surfacesfor engagingthe wings thereof and the side portions of the upperadjacent the shoe opening, a pair of presser elements adapted to engagethe outside of the shoe on the wings and on the side portions adjacentthe rim of the shoe opening, and means for swinging said presserelements laterally of said form into pressing position with respect tosaid form.

50. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings, aform over which a shoe may be placed to present within the shoe surfacesfor engaging the wings thereof and the side portions of the upperadjacent the shoe opening, a pair of presser elements adapted to engagethe outside of the shoe on the wings and on the side portions adjacentthe rim of the shoe opening, and means for moving said presser elementsalong paths, respectively, extending substantially normal to thelongitudinal axis of the form to press said presser elements towardssaid form.

51. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings,coacting pressing forms having substantially complementary shapingsurfaces for contacting the inner and outer surfaces of the skirtingalong the top edge of at least one side of the shoe and the wingthereof, at least one of said forms comprising a base portion forcontacting the top edge skirting and a wing carried by the base portionfor contacting the shoe wing, and means for swinging said last namedform into contact with said top edge skirting and said wing.

52. In a shoe upper shaper, a form adapted to support a shoe and tofacilitate an operation upon the upper thereof, said form having aconformation shaped generally to the desired shape of the foot openingin the shoe and having an end portion shaped to receive the heel portionof the upper and the other end portion contoured to accommodate elementsof the upper adjacent the forward end of the foot opening, said formbeing provided with areas located to support the forward portions'of thequarters of the uppers, and cooperating outer pressing means shaped andmounted to bear against said heel portion and areas as well as the sidesof said form.

53. The combination with a pressing element for shoe upper shaperscomprising a slightly concave body portion having one end widened toengage the forward and upper portion of the quarter'of a shoe and itsother end narrowed to engage the rear portion of the quarter and theheel portion of the shoe, and actuating means extending from said bodyportion, of a form cooperating therewith, contoured to the desired shapeof the foot opening in the shoe, and provided with a portion effectiveto support the throat of the foot opening.

54. A shoe upper treating apparatus having a form over which the uppermay be placed for treating with the top edge thereof in full view of theoperator throughout substantially its entire extent, and means fortreating the sides of the shoe upper along their top margins andsubstantially simultaneously throughout.

55. In a machine for re-forming a shoe provided with closure wings,coacting pressing forms having opposed shaping surfaces for contactingthe inner and outer surfaces of the skirting along the top edge of atleast one side of the shoe and the wing thereof, at least one of saidforms having a base portion for contacting the top edge skirting and awing constructed and arranged to have greater resiliency than the baseportion for contacting the shoe wing.

56. In combination, a form shaped to support thereon a shoe having aneyelet stay, said form having is surface portion presented opposite tosaid stay and a surface portion back of said stay and opposite to thetop margin of the shoe upper, and means for pressing in one operationthe top margin of the shoe upper back of and along the outer edge ofsaid eyelet stay against said form.

57. In combination, a form shaped to support thereon a shoe having anupward extension of its side back of the throat, said upward extensionhaving a row of eyelets inwardly of its forward margin, said form havinga. surface opposite to said extension and opposite to the top margin ofthe shoe back of said extension, and means for pressing the top marginof the shoe at said extension outwardly of said eyelets and back of saidextension against said form.

58. In combination, a form shaped to support thereon a shoe having anupward extension of its side back of the throat, said upward extensionhaving a row of eyelets inwardly of its forward margin, said form havinga surface opposite to said extension and opposite to the top margin ofthe shoe back of said extension, and means for pressing the top marginof the shoe at said extension outwardly of said eyelets and back of saidextension against said form with an upward component of such pressure onthe outer face of the shoe upper.

59. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension back of the throat may be placed, and a presser member havingapressing contour substantially following the top edge contour of theshoe including that of said extension for pressing the marginal portionof said shoe side against said form.

60. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension back of the throat may be placed, and a presser member havinga pressing contour substantially following an edge contour of saidextension for pressing the marginal portion of said shoe side extensionagainst said form.

61. A top-edge treating machine having in combination, means engagingthe lining adjacent the top seam, means engaging the upper adjacent thetop seam, and mechanism for operating said means to feather the edge ofthe lining adjacent the top seam, and to bend the folded edge of theupper towards the adjacent plane of the feathered lining edge.

62. A top-edge treating machine having, in combination, means engagingthe lining adjacent the top seam, means engaging the upper adjacent thetop seam, and mechanism for operating said means to feather the edge ofthe lining adjacent the top seam and to iron out the depression formedin the exposed face of the upper during the top-stitching operation.

63. A top-edge treating machine having, in combination, means engagingthe lining adjacent the top seam, means engaging the upper adjacent thetop seam, and mechanism for operating said means to feather the edge ofthe lining adjacent the top seam, to iron out the depression formed inthe exposed face of the upper during the top-stitching operation, and tobend the folded edge of the upper towards the adjacent plane of thefeathered lining edge.

MILTON L. DODGE.

